Mr. Sherpe Goes To Washington

Across the Fence #493

After leaving Mount Vernon, we boarded our bus and headed for Washington D.C. where we would spend three days. We stayed at a hotel in Fairfax, Virginia for four nights while we toured Washington. It was nice not having to pack everything up each day. 

Each morning we were up early and had a wonderful buffet breakfast at the hotel at 6:00. By 7:00 everyone was on the bus and we headed out for the day’s adventures. In Washington we picked up our step-on guide who would be with us throughout the day and give us the history of each site we visited.

Our first stop was the Nation’s Capitol. It reminded me of our state capitol in Madison. I had my picture taken standing on the steps to prove I was actually in Washington. One of the interesting things our guide pointed out was where they remove the center portion of the balcony railing for inaugurations. This is where the President comes out of the Capitol to reach the platform that’s set up for the ceremony. I should mention that uniformed guards were in place everywhere we went in Washington.

Our next stop was the White House. The closest you can get these days is to stand by the black iron fence that surrounds the grounds and protects it. Tours inside the White House are no longer given to the public. 9-11 changed everything. I guess President Obama was busy running the country because no one came out to wave hello to this gawking bunch of Midwesterners peering through the fence.

Our next stop was the National World War II Memorial. It covers a lot of area and it’s impressive. I especially liked the bas-relief panels that line both walls of the entrance, depicting scenes from the war effort. Another unforgettable mental picture is the Freedom Wall containing 4,000 gold stars, each one representing 100 war dead. 400,000 Americans gave their lives. In front of the wall is the inscription, “Here We Mark the Price of Freedom.” The memorial is a fitting tribute to the “Greatest Generation.”

Our next stop was at the Washington National Cathedral, a very impressive work of architecture. It’s the world’s sixth largest cathedral. Being a wood carver, I was especially interested in the intricate carvings on the pulpit and alters. Parts of the cathedral were damaged in the 2011 earthquake and are still being repaired.

As we drove around Washington on a beautiful, sunny day, the cherry trees were close to full bloom. Our step-on guide pointed out so many things that people would miss if they were on their own. 

At noon we stopped at the Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts, where we had lunch and received a tour of the building, including the terrace at the top of the building where we had great views of Washington.

Next we headed for the Vietnam Veteran’s Memorial. Our first stop was at the statue of the three soldiers that was added after The Wall was completed. Our guide gave us background information and said The Wall has become one of the most moving memorials on the mall. As a Vietnam veteran, this is one memorial that I was well acquainted with, but didn’t know how seeing and experiencing it would affect me. We walked slowly down the path until we came to where the two sections meet in the center and is just over ten feet high. The amount of names on The Wall is overwhelming. I felt empty, disgusted, angry, sad, and an extreme sense of loss, because none of those names, that include friends of mine, should have been on a wall. I felt so empty I couldn’t even shed a tear.

Close by is the Vietnam Women’s Memorial. This was spearheaded by Diane Carlson Evans, a Vietnam nurse and friend of mine. She served in the hospital in Pleiku where we sent our casualties. She worked for many years to get that memorial and the women veterans richly deserve it. 

From there we walked to the Lincoln Memorial. It is so much more impressive when you see it in person. I looked out across the reflecting pool to the Washington Monument, and could almost hear Martin Luther King standing where I was and delivering his “I have a dream” speech.

On the other side of the pool is the Korean War Veteran’s Memorial. The 19 stainless steel statues seem real as they advance while on patrol. Many in our group thought it was the most impressive memorial. 

Our final stop of the day was the Iwo Jima (US Marine Corps Memorial), of five Marines and one Navy Corpsman raising the American flag on Iwo Jima.

It was a full day and we had much to think about as our bus took us back to our hotel. If you’ve never taken a bus tour, I’ll say again, it’s a great way to travel. You get to see a lot of the country along the way and you meet some wonderful people who become your friends by the end of the trip. I thought the many hours on the bus would drag but time goes by fast when you’re visiting with people around you, watching movies, sitting back and enjoying the scenery, and in my case, doing some writing. 

Next week, some final images and thoughts on a great trip with Jag Tours.


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An American History Trip - Mount Vernon

Across the Fence #492

Last week we toured the battlefields of Gettysburg as part of our bus trip that also included Mount Vernon and Washington D.C. There was a light rain falling most of the day that we toured Gettysburg and Mount Vernon, but we didn’t let it dampen our spirits or interfer with touring the sites. We came prepared, as did many others, and had an umbrella with us.

After we departed Gettysburg, Pennsylvania we headed down the road to Mount Vernon, Virginia. This was the home of George and Martha Washington. We found out it was first owned by George Washington’s great-grandfather in 1674. This historic estate was composed of five farms by the time Washington became president. His home was built between 1735 and 1787, as additions were added to the original house. It’s considered to have the most magnificent view of any homes along the Potomac River. As we toured the grounds, I can attest that even in the rain the view was great. Today, Mount Vernon covers 500 acres and includes the mansion, Washington’s tomb, a slave memorial cemetery, two museums, 12 outbuildings, many gardens, and a pioneer farm site.

Following Washington’s death on December 12, 1799, the estate began to decline and was falling into disrepair. In 1858, the house’s historical importance was recognized and it was saved from ruin by The Mount Vernon Ladies’ Association. This philanthropic organization acquired the mansion along with part of the Washington estate. It’s still owned and maintained in trust by the association. It’s great that they saved the property and still operate it so people can visit this important historical site.

Prior to the Revolutionary War, Washington operated the estate as five separate farms. It may interest Vernon County, Wisconsin farmers that Washington raised tobacco, but didn’t have much success with the crop and by 1766 he had quit trying to grow tobacco and replaced it with wheat, corn, and other grain crops.

This was over 100 years before the Civil War and Virginia farmers owned slaves who did the work. I found it interesting that Washington had a surplus of slaves at Mount Vernon because he refused to break up families and sell them, as other slave owners did. At the time of his death the slave population of Mount Vernon was 316 people. Washington’s thoughts on slavery changed over the years and near the end of his life he mandated the freeing of all his slaves upon his wife’s death. His estate paid for the care of them for decades after his death. Of nine early presidents who owned slaves, Washington is the only one who freed all his slaves. 

When we were in grade school we began learning about George Washington, the father of our country. I remember the famous portrait that most rural schools had hanging on the wall, along with Abraham Lincoln’s portrait. We also learned that he cut down a cherry tree and confessed that he had done the deed to his father because he couldn’t tell a lie. He also purportedly threw a dollar across the Potomac River. And of course, we were taught that he wore wooden dentures. As I said in a recent column, what is truth, and in this case, what is myth? 

Washington had full dentures but they were not made of wood. Biographer Parson Mason Weems wrote that he chopped down a cherry tree and never told a lie, but he invented those stories to enhance Washington’s heroic qualities. If any of you have seen the Potomac River, you know it’s a long way across (about a mile wide) and there were no US silver dollars available when Washington was a young man. I’m sorry to burst your historical bubble about the man, but someone has to set the record straight.

In reality, Washington didn’t need those myths to be a great man and leader. He fought many battles during the French and Indian War. Four bullets ripped through his coat and two horses were shot from underneigth him. Those incidents increased his stature as a man who was destined to lead his countrymen to victory. He was elected Commander in Chief of the Continental Army and after more than seven grueling years, led them to victory. When the new constitution was ratified, Washington was unanimously elected as our nation’s first President and served from 1789 until the end of his second term in 1797. He established the two terms per President so we wouldn’t become a monarchy with a King ruling for life. 

Touring the Mount Vernon mansion and surrounding grounds was special to me because of my love of history. Even the falling rain didn’t diminish the experience. It’s a beautiful spot with magnificent views. As we neared the end of our visit, I had a better appreciation for the Father of Our Country as we stood in front of the crypt where George and Martha now rest.

I’m glad our tour included a stop at Mount Vernon. It’s well worth the trip. Next week we’ll continue the journey as Mr. Sherpe Goes to Washington.     

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An American History Trip - Gettysburg

Across the Fence #491

It’s Sunday morning and the sun is bright on the horizon as we head east on the Interstate through rural Ohio. The land is flat as a pancake in all directions. It’s a far cry from the hills and valleys of Vernon County, Wisconsin.

We’re on a week-long bus trip headed for Gettysburg and Washington D.C. We’ve never been to either place and thought a bus tour was the way to go. “Take the bus and leave the driving to us.” After being stuck in stop and go traffic around Chicago yesterday for almost two hours, I’m glad we could just sit back, read, do Sudoku puzzles, or try to sleep. I’ve said it many times, you couldn’t pay me enough to drive in that kind of traffic mess every day. I’ll take rural living any day of the week, where a traffic jam is being behind a tractor pulling a piece of machinery. I know someone has to live and work in big cities, I’m just glad it’s not me. Give this old country boy some wide open spaces, but that’s a story for another day. Lets get back on the bus.

There are 90 of us on two buses run by Jag Tours out of Rochester, Minnesota. If you’ve never taken a bus tour, I’d highly recommend it. This is our second bus trip. We know one other couple on the trip, but you don’t have to know any of the other people to have a good time. It’s fun meeting and getting to know other people on the tour. In the first two days we’ve met people from Minnesota, Iowa, and Wisconsin. Some of them even admit that they read this column. I never use any names unless I ask permission first. One couple, Wayne and Darlene from Barre Mills heard I was from Westby and recognized my name. They read Across the Fence in the Jackson County Chronicle. There’s a wonderful bunch of people on this tour and that makes for a fun trip. 

After we got into the Allegheny Mountins of Pennsylvania, the countryside we were traveling through became more interesting. We saw several pre-Civil War barns and buildings. Long-time readers of this column know of my love for old barns. As is the case with old barns everywhere, many are in disrepair and falling apart from old age and neglect. The closer we got to Gettysburg the more old buildings we saw that still survived from the time of the Civil War and are kept in good repair.

We finally arrived in Gettysburg late in the afternoon on Sunday and got settled into our rooms. There was enough time before leaving for dinner to walk up to the Soldier’s National Cemetery located near our hotel. The battlefield where Picket’s Charge took place was also nearby. The weather was nice and the forcast for the next day was 100% chance for rain. I decided to see what I could that evening before the rain arrived. Several other members of the tour had the same idea. The focal point of the cemetery is a large memorial near the center. This was placed in the area where President Lincoln stood when he delivered the Gettysburg Address. A semi-circle of markers radiate out from it. They mark the gravesites of thousands of Union soldiers who fell at Gettysburg. Many rows have only numbers on them. They are unknown soldiers. 

I’ve always been interested in American history and the Civil War. It was special to be visiting the area where those fateful three days determined the course of history for our young country. If the South had won that battle they would probably have gone on to defeat the North. So many lives were lost in those three days. It really struck home the next day as we visited the battlefields. I had been hoping the rain would hold off but it began falling before we boarded the bus to tour the different sites. Because it was raining, we sat in the bus while the tour guide told the story of each battle site. In several places, those of us who wanted to get out and try to take some photos, braved the falling rain. It wasn’t the type of weather I’d have ordered for our Gettysburg visit. 

Little Round Top

The battle on Little Round Top has been on my bucket list of places I felt I needed to visit. My friend, Dennis, who died several years ago was also fascinated with it. We connected the first time we met and felt like we had known each other forever. Dennis felt that our spirits had been together in another life and that we had fought together on Little Round Top. As I stood in the rain on the rocks of Little Round Top, I thought of Dennis. We had talked of taking a trip to Gettysburg together before he died, but we never made it. I wondered if his spirit was standing there beside me.

Later, as I envisioned Picket’s Charge from the position of the Union troops, I couldn’t even imagine the destruction of human life that took place on that field. It was very appropriate that the rain still fell on us. Maybe it was the tears of the thousands of men who lost their lives during those three horrible days, still consecrating the ground. It was very appropriate. 

To be continued…

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What Is Truth?

Across the Fence #490

“The cosmos is all that is, ever was, or ever will be.” Those words were spoken by Carl Sagan, an American astronomer, astrophysicist, and cosmologist, who co-wrote and co-produced the popular 1980 PBS series: “Cosmos: A Personal Journey.” I found the series fascinating at the time because it explored so many of the questions I had about the universe and our existence and place in it.

Now astrophysicist Neil deGrasse Tyson, Family Guy creator Seth MacFarlane, and Ann Druyan, who co-wrote the 1980 Cosmos: A Personal Voyage with her late husband, Carl Sagan, have created a 13-part journey through the universe and beyond: Cosmos: A Spacetime Odyssey. It airs on ten networks, including Fox and the National Geographic Channel. The show is engaging, entertaining, and educational. I think many people are starved for intelligent, educational TV programming, instead of the many mindless reality shows that are anything but reality.

This new production brings back the Cosmic Calendar, which tries to put the unfathomable 13.8-billion-year history of the universe in the context of one year, with all of recorded history taking up just the last 14 seconds of Dec. 31. It really puts the formation and history of our world into perspective. That gets back to my question, what is truth? I know there are people who believe the universe is only 6,500-10,000 years old. There’s a lot of time difference between 6,500 and 13.8 billions years. 

If we look at scientific discoveries, we know this old sphere we’re traveling through space on has a few years on it. One example, paleontologists searching the deserts of central Ethiopia, unearthed the fossilized bones of a 4.4-million-year-old hominid creature. There’s also the 3-million-year-old “Lucy,” just to name a couple of discoveries.

If we go back in time even farther, dinosaurs disappeared from the earth about 65 million years ago. That’s a long time. We have dinosaur bones that scientifically prove they once existed and roamed the earth millions of years ago. 

The movie “Noah” has been in the news recently and has generated a bit of controversy about what animals should have been on the ark. Neil deGrasse Tyson once made a comment that dealt with a teacher’s statement about Noah’s ark: “People cited violation of the First Amendment when a New Jersey schoolteacher asserted that evolution and the Big Bang are not scientific and that Noah's ark carried dinosaurs. This case is not about the need to separate church and state; it's about the need to separate ignorant, scientifically illiterate people from the ranks of teachers.”

While watching Cosmos on Sunday night, I realized how little I really know. There’s a reason I’m not an astrophysicist. They were talking about the speed of light and how many of the stars we see in the night sky are already dead. They’ve been ghosts for millions of years. Even at the speed of light it’s taken that long for their light to reach us. That had never occurred to this meager brain I’m working with, even though I’m always questioning and looking for answers to life’s mysteries. It seems the universe is so vast that my mind can’t comprehend the enormity of it. Not only are we looking at objects that are astonishingly far away, but we’re also looking back in time. If a star is 100 light years distant, it has taken an entire century for the light to reach our eyes. For example, Alkaid, the star at the end of the Big Dipper’s handle, is about 101 light years away. If you go outside tonight and look up at the Big Dipper, the light you see from Alkaid left that star over 100 years ago. By contrast, the light from the moon is only one second old and the light from the sun occurred eight minutes before you see it.

What is truth? I keep searching for it. I know that what I viewed as truth when I was a young boy has changed as our view of the world and the universe has changed. Not that many years ago people believed that the sun revolved around the earth. We were the center of a very small universe. As scientific discoveries have been made, what we once thought was true has been proven false. The Hubble telescope has expanded our view of the universe to mind-boggling proportions. Now we know our Milky Way Galaxy is just one of billions of galaxies. Experts say there are between 100 billion and 200 billion galaxies. That’s a staggering number.

Science has shown that our bodies are made up of molecules and atoms, the same as those stars and every other living thing in the world. From dust to dust, we’re all composed of “star dust.” Those are things we’ve discovered and learned in my lifetime. What is truth? What is true today may change tomorrow as new discoveries are made. I think we live in an exciting time as the universe keeps opening up and reveling new things to us. Now when I look into the vastness of the night sky, I don’t feel small and insignificant. I feel like I’m a part of it and everything and everyone is connected. 

What is truth? That’s for each of us to try and discover during our lifetime.

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I Miss the "Ridgerunner"

Across the Fence #489

One thing people of my age do is scan through the obituaries in the newspaper each day. As long as our name isn’t listed, we’re good to go for another day. Unfortunately, I see a lot of people my age and younger listed. All too often I see someone I know.

This past weekend I saw the name of James C. Solberg from the La Crosse area, who died on March 18, 2014. He was only 68 years old, two years younger than I am. 

I didn’t know Jim personally. I never had the pleasure of meeting him, but I feel like I know him through his popular weekly newspaper column, the “Ridgerunner Report” by Jim Solberg. I’m sure many of you were faithful readers of his column too and miss it as much as I do. Due to health problems, he had to give up writing it. The last column ran almost a year ago on May 1, 2013. He said in that column that the perfect storm of physical difficulties and print media business realities (deadlines) put an end to his column. He said, “I will miss sharing my experiences with you more than I can possibly describe.”

Jim was a wonderful nature and wildlife photographer as well as an outdoor writer. Many of his photos of wildlife accompanied his writings. He had a gift of being able to put his observations of nature into words that gave us all a better appreciation for the natural world around us and made me want to head for the woods and marshes in search of the sights and sounds he wrote about. I learned something new each week from Jim. When he was no longer able to continue the column, I found out how much a person can miss a weekly column when it’s no longer available. I had meant to contact Jim and tell him how much I enjoyed his column, but I never took the time to do it. Now I’m sorry I didn’t let him know, but it’s too late. 

I know what he meant when he said he’d miss sharing his experiences. I would too. I understand the pressure of meeting weekly deadlines and staring at a blank sheet of paper, hoping some words will magically materialize. Writing can sometimes be an exercise of quiet desperation. I’m willing to bet Jim had some days like that too. But when all is said and done, and someone tells you they like your column, it makes it all worthwhile. That’s why it bothers me now that I never told Jim how much I enjoyed his writing and how I could relate to so many things he wrote about. 

On Sunday, the day after I read about his passing over to the great nature preserve beyond this world, I knew I had to visit Goose Island just south of La Crosse. It was one of Jim’s favorite places to go and observe nature and all the birds and wildlife that occupy the area. After it became harder for him to get around, it was the one place that was still accessible to him, where he could observe and report on the wonders of nature that he found there.

As Linda and I drove slowly along the access road, I spotted two sandhill cranes standing in an open area of water in a marshy area. Most of the water on and around the island is still frozen over. In another area of the marsh I saw a muskrat heading across the ice toward his home that was surrounded by ice. An open patch of water was nearby, where he could enter the water and gain entrance to his home. I could imagine Jim in his healthier days, walking these trails with his trusty camera and notebook, to capture and record scenes like those, and later weave them into one of his wonderful stories.

We also spotted a bald eagle perched high in a tree and saw several ducks lazily floating on patches of open water. It was a bright, sunny day, but the cold, biting wind reminded me that winter was still in charge.

We came upon a man with a camera mounted on a tripod, using a telephoto lens. I was reminded of how Jim must have loved observing and capturing his great, close-up photos of birds and other wildlife in the same way. Anyone who loves to spend time roaming the open fields, forests, and marshes, knows how tough it would be if you could no longer do that.

Last spring, Jim wrote these words in one of his last columns: “Bird migrations offer a lot more than the drama of seeing a whole bunch of birds on the move. For many species, the songs and calls they make on the journey characterize the migration as much as the spectacle. Who can ever forget the nostalgic sound of geese as they fly overhead on a crisp autumn day? Fortunately, many of those migrating birds provide a brilliant musical interlude in spring as well as fall.”

I hope you can all get out and enjoy the spring migration. Watch, listen, and enjoy, as nature comes alive again after this long winter. While you’re enjoying the return of spring, remember Jim Solberg, the Ridgerunner, who gave us his wonderful observations of the natural world around us.

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