Exploring Rock Shelters and Caves

Across the Fence #281

Goods News! I was able to get out of bed this morning and function at a fairly normal level. This evening the muscle soreness has set in, but it was worth every bit of the aches, pains, cuts, and scratches.

I’ve always been interested in archaeology, history, and the Native Americans who lived on this land long before the first white man arrived. I’ve wanted to explore some of the Indian caves and rock shelters and see the rock art they did on the walls. That dream became a reality this week.

I was invited to visit some sites by a man who knew of my interest in ancient rock art. I’ll just call him Jim in this story. The location of the sites we visited must also remain a secret, due to the fear of vandalism to the art. Jim had permission from the landowners for us to explore the caves and rock shelters. He had visited one of them before, but the other three areas would be a first for both of us.

They’re located in the southwestern part of Wisconsin in the unglaciated “Driftless Area.” It’s a rugged landscape with huge hills, deep valleys, and sandstone outcroppings located at the top of steep bluffs. Take a drive around the Driftless Area and you’ll see these rock formations in the hills.

As Jim and I arrived at the first area to explore, I was pumped and ready for action. It was a cool, but sunny day—perfect for a hike, and boy were we in for some hiking. As I surveyed the first area we’d climb, I wished I was 40 years younger. The day would not only be one of exploration and adventure, but also a test of our stamina and will. I must report that both of us have a “few” years behind us.

This is a perfect time for hiking through deep woods before the vegetation begins to bloom and the mosquitoes and snakes become active. Even so, the brambles and thorns tried to block our path and bloodied our hands. We hiked uphill along a deep valley. Where the valley narrowed near the top of the hill we came to a rock formation nearly hidden from view. If the vegetation had been in full bloom, I’d never have known it was there.

We emerged into a huge rock shelter. Much of the sandstone floor had deteriorated over the years and crumbled into the valley below, leaving a considerable drop-off. There was a small cave entrance about nine feet up the side of a rock face. You could tell that the floor of the shelter had once been near the entrance. But now, how would a person get up there without a ladder. I wanted to get into that cave and explore, but there were no foot or handholds. After several attempts to reach the ledge as Jim used his locked hands as a foothold, we abandoned that approach. I wasn’t about to give up. I decided to haul several rocks and pile them at the base of the cliff. That got me another couple of feet closer. Standing on the rocks I could reach the ledge at the cave entrance. Between me pulling myself up, and Jim boosting, I managed to crawl up and into the cave. I had images in my mind of coming face to face with a snarling, cornered animal, but that’s all part of the equation if you want this type of adventure. Luckily, I didn’t encounter any animal or snakes, only darkness. I turned on my flashlight and examined my surroundings.

As I sat in the entrance of the cave and looked out, I imagined the Indians who once sat at that same spot and looked out at the forest surrounding them. I felt very much alive sitting there in the present, while I was also a part of ancient history. The first known inhabitants sat there 3,500 years ago.

The Mississippi Valley Archaeology Center (MVAC) excavated the site in the 1980s. They found four periods of occupation, ranging from 1500 B.C. to 1000 A.D. That’s 2,500 years of occupation and many years ago since it was last used. Several Petroglyphs (rock carvings) were found. Chiseling or pecking into the rock surface, using stones or deer antlers as tools, made the carvings. I wanted to see those carvings. We finally found them and with the right lighting were able to photograph them. I hope they remain unharmed for thousands of years to come, so future generations can have the same thrill we had in finding them.

I explored the cave, hoping to find some arrowhead or artifact the archaeologists had overlooked. I wasn’t successful, but did find a small animal jawbone that had been blackened from burning in a firepit. Meanwhile, Jim found a piece of flint among the crumbling sandstone outside.

Climbing down out of the cave was just as hard as getting in. If I had lost my grip and fallen, it could have been disastrous for both Jim and me.

As we left the site and headed down the valley to the car, we still had three more sites to explore. We climbed three very steep hills, traversed deep valleys, and examined more caves and shelters. At the end of the day I was tired, but knew this would be a day and adventure I’d always remember.